Madrid and Toledo

We find there is this reoccurring theme in our travels. Just about the time we are really comfortable where we are it is time to move on. We both have a sense of when this is supposed to happen and have been together on all the decisions of when and where to go. We look at this as a God thing and both know this is how this time is supposed to be. We know that each place is very special and our absolute favorite while we are there and that this promise holds true for the next place. So when it came time to move on, we changed our direction from Barcelona to Madrid. We were excited to see Gabriella and spend some time with her.

Gabriella is Liviu’s next to youngest sister and to put it mildly a real spitfire.

At twenty-four years of age she has lived and worked in numerous countries to better her life. She currently is working towards becoming a law enforcement officer. No easy task in Spain but nonetheless, her goal. I suspect she could do anything she set her mind and heart on. To say that she is a hard worker would be an understatement. She too, has had a hard life and has worked very hard to get where she is now. She never complains and feels as if she has been extraordinarily blessed. She is amazingly kind and extremely generous.

So when she sent us this e-mail there was no doubt that we would go to Madrid and visit with her. “Desiree mama and father, please come to my house. We see Toledo and Madrid and I show you everything. Be prepared to walk your feet off J J J! My house is our house and you stay as long as you can. I will cook for you and take you to Chino food-no cat or dog I promise” well, with a deal like that who could say no!

Gabriella is a lovely woman and we have grown to love her immensely. Her brother Lorenzo (that’s how he spells it now that he is in Spain) was there also. They did walk our feet off. We would head out the door by 9:00 a.m. often having dinner at midnight somewhere in the city.

We had a blast! Different than our life in Zuherios but very real Spain. We ate octopus (they had told us it was porpoise so we were pleasantly surprised), Argentinean food (Gabi’s boyfriend is from Argentina) and a variety of all of their favorites. We would stop and have a cup of coffee late into the night so we could continue with the night activities. It was awesome. We took the double decker bus tour through Madrid late at night and it was fabulous. We had walked the streets for hours and this gave us a different perspective. It can best be described as a cross between San Francisco and New York and it comes to life at night.

Madrid is beautiful and we loved being there with these two young people.

To say that our time their was lovely would be an understatement. It was hard to leave; forever imprinted in our hearts is the kindness and generosity of these young people who showed us life in Madrid.

I think were heading off to Basque country…will let you know how that goes!

Zuherios-Valencia-Madrid

We had extended our time at the Hacienda and after the seventh day Luis said we were no longer guests but family. This would make the leaving even harder. We would miss the familiarity of our surroundings and the easy way in which we interacted with the people we met along the way. We now knew the ladies at the market in Dona Mencia and they were eager to help us find the things we needed often taking our dictionary and finding the words for us. Life was easy and very comfortable.

When Luis asked why we had chosen the Minerva for our stay the answer was easy. We wanted to live life. We wanted to live life here in rural Spain and get lost in the way it was for those who lived in Zuherios. We don’t for one minute think they all had it as easy as we did but for a moment we got to look into their lives and even be a part of it. This was a time we will never forget. Nor do we think that all Spain lives this simple, uncomplicated life that we had been a part of.

We really had no idea as to where we would go next but one morning we woke up and said it was off to Valencia and then maybe Barcelona. Our son-in-law Liviu has family in Valencia so we thought we might stop by and visit.

To our delight Liviu’s mom invited us to stay in her home while we were there. His sister Gabriella who lives in Madrid also extended an invitation to us if we cared to come her way. What I write about next is the hardest to put into words but probably one of the best things that will have come out of this trip.

There is much in this life we have seen and lived and to this day I thank God that I can still be caught of guard and moved by the simplest acts of kindness. We had never met Livius mother Ana as she had left Romania about a year before our daughter Desiree married Liviu. We had gone over a few times but she had already left for Spain where she took a job as a caregiver to help support her family. This has always seemed a difficult decision to me as she left seven children behind, Liviu being the oldest at twenty-one. She missed their wedding and I am sure many events in her family’s lives. Some times I think we don’t fully appreciate the depth of love until we understand the depth of sacrifice one makes. On our way over we talked about a small gift to bring to Ana to thank her for letting us stay with her. Our daughter Desiree said she always liked a little chocolate with coffee so we picked up a 10E box along the way. When we arrived she was waiting for us at the door and although she is my age I felt as if I were coming home. She welcomed us with open arms and with a mixture of Romanian and Spanish we chatted away. We had brought our computer and showed her the pictures of our families over the years. One very poignant moment was when we both watched the video of Liviu and Gabriel on Mother’s Day about two years ago.

He had done this at church as a tribute to his wife and to his mother and the two of them sang a very special song about mothers in Romanian. As we watched this video (yes, over and over) we both began to cry. I for what I had gained and she for what she had missed. The depth of our emotion was the same and we shared such a special bond. The language was irrelevant the love was significant.

There was a flurry of phone calls the whole time we were there.

Everyone was happy that we were here and they all came by to visit. Ana cooked the most spectacular meals and cared for us beyond what I could ever put into words. She is a caregiver for a ninety-year-old man who has suffered a stroke. She works so very hard and yet we felt as if we were the most important people in her world. I think everyone feels like that around Ana. Most of Liviu’s family is now in Spain and we had the opportunity to see them all except Livius dad and youngest sister Andrea.

It was very hard to leave. We had wanted to purchase a phone card for her so she could call her family but none were to be found. Our 10E box of chocolate seemed so small now and I felt as if nothing I could give her would ever equal what I had received. I pondered over this all night and decided I would give her something of mine, something personal, to keep. I always travel with a few scarves so I decided to leave one with her. I fretted a few times about this, as it seemed so small. Not only was I leaving someone I loved but also she had packed us up with Iberian ham and twelve pounds of Spain’s best chocolate! In the morning I looked for my scarves and none could be found. Now I really felt bad. We left amid tears and hugs and hopes and promises to see each other again. She called the next day to say she had found my scarf and that she would send it. With the help of Gabriella I told her to keep it. That she could wear it when she was cold and that it would warm her as thoughts of her would do me. And that she could recall that I had once worn this scarf and it would remind her that we both were loving the same children. I think she knows all she needs to know…and I know that I do.

Alhambra in Grenada

Thoughts of Spain often conjure the images of the Alhambra Place in Grenada. It is known as the Red Palace and was declared an UNESCO heritage site in 1984 and is considered to be one of the most beautiful palace/gardens in the world. We can attest that this is true. It has a great history beginning in the 13^th century with the rule of the Nasrid dynasty. The Arabic design is still so very visual today. It wasn’t until the 15^th and 16^th century that the Catholic monarchs-Isabella and Ferdinand conducted extensive repairs and made the alterations that are still present today and give it some of it’s Spainish flare. It is breath taking and it is easy for one to meander the grounds and get lost in time.

Our friend Luis suggested that we take the walk the locals take called the Cuesta de los Chinos. This is a trail that takes you around the periphery of the Palace and gardens and allows you to

see a bit more of the history of Grenada. We have never been lead astray by his recommendation so away we went. With nothing more than a hand written map we set out to explore the old city. It was breath taking and quaint to say the least. We meandered the quiet streets stopping to look at the history along the way. There are still the old Arab markets that have a feel and sound that is different than anything else you see in Spain; bright colorful fabrics, jewelry, music, and spices galore.

To mix the old with the new, Luis told us about a couple of Bodegas/Tapa bars where you can bring your own bottle and they will fill it up with the local wine for one Euro. The Tapas are free at these places when you have a glass of vino or a cervesa. So, away we went trying not to look like foreigners. We went into the Casa Julio and walked up to the bar and in our very practiced Espana ordered our drinks. And with that came our first order of fried sardines. They were awesome. Next we had…well, I’m not quite sure but I think it might have been a vegetable dish. These places get quite full during siesta time and people line up for a chance to squeeze up to the bar. Luis tells us that the working people often stop here for a drink and snack before heading home for lunch and rest before the evening gets under way. Sounds like a good deal to me. They get very crowded and noisy so when I say we were holding our own here that really is quite an accomplishment.

The pictures do not really do the grounds justice nor trying to explain the feelings of peace and tranquility one feels here while meandering between the 13^th and 21^st centuries.

Suffice to say that each time we recall the Alhambra a smile will come across our face and stay a very long time.

Happy Birthday Tommy

We woke up this morning with the recollection of where we were last year at this time. Beirut, Lebanon enroute to Baskinta, Lebanon to spend a few days with long lost family. It was a most memorable birthday for Tom and I so when his birthday approached this year I wanted it to be another unforgettable day. We had planned to be in the Alhambra museum/palace in Grenada but had a slight difficulty getting our tickets because of the holidays here in Spain. We will go another day. Our friend Luis had a few suggestions but there was one that really piqued our interest. He suggested we drive into a small Andalusian village, Fuente Alhama, and have lunch in the house/restaurant of the only eatery in the area. This is a family run operation where mama does all the cooking and papa and his son do all the serving and clearing. It is in their home and they have two small eating areas inside and a big porch out the front door.

There is no easy way to get there…you just follow the map that Luis draws for you. We were given a note that introduced us and Luis said no need to worry about what to order, “You get whatever mama cooks”. We were excited to see what that would be.

We were given the table by the fireplace and near the opened front door. Here we could see the coming and going of the entire town. Numerous people came and went, often times on horseback. It was awesome to watch them ride up and tie up their horse before coming in.

We were given a couple cans of beer and then a plate of something we had never seen or tasted before.

It looked like a small pickled fig and it was delicious. We met a couple of men who sat across the table from us and they explained a few of the dishes. These were capers and they were huge! They would offer us some of their food, asking us to try something that had just been brought to them with an explanation of what it was. It was like family. We then got a plate of something that looked like bread dressing from Thanksgiving Day. It was very tasty and it was just thick, soft bread fried in olive oil. The main course was a plate of large fried potatoes with six fresh fried eggs on top of it. Along with that were blood sausages and chorizo.

It was delicious! Hot and cooked in olive oil. We ate as much as we could but left enough for four more people to have a complete meal. Next they brought us a huge plate of melon. Not so sure what type of melon it was but it was delicious.

We rested a few moments before that brought us an old coke bottle filed with homemade anise. We thought of our daughter-in-law Liz and wished we could bring this bottle back home for her. There was no lid on the bottle so that would have made it difficult. There is a city, Rute, south of here that is infamous for it’s anise. This was homemade and the best we had ever tasted.

They brought it along with four individually wrapped pastries, which I had to slip into my purse.

We sat for a while and while with hope that our food would digest, but we remained full for the rest of the day. It was unforgettable!

And by the way, I know what were going to have for Sunday lunch when we return!

Today We Heard The Violins

Most of us have been the recipients of bulk e-mails and while I find I don’t always have the time to read them there was something that caught my eye in one I received yesterday. First, it was from a friend and fellow traveler of ours named Martin and second, it was about violins. For those of you who know me, you know that I have a passion for violin music. There is something about the music that can move me to tears and, as my friend Lois can attest, I listen to it everyday.

This e-mail article was about an experiment done at the Metro station in Washington DC in 2007. Early one morning the renowned violinist Joshua Bell dressed in ordinary clothes and a baseball cap began to play his Stratavarius violin. He played some of the most beautiful and complicated Bach concertos. Over the period of one hour twenty people stopped walking to listen to him play and $32.00 was dropped in his violin case. It was a study about perception. The questions that were raised were these: In a commonplace environment and at inopportune moment do we perceive beauty? If so do we stop to appreciate it? Do we recognize talent and beauty in an unexpected content? It made me stop and think. Being a devout violin fan I believe I would have stopped and listened to the music. But, how many things do we miss by being preoccupied and in a hurry and can we find beauty in the unexpected?

Today after lunch Tom and drove to a beautiful little town called Priego de Cordoba. We had heard that they had the most beautiful fountains in small piatsa at the end of town.It was a beautiful and sunny day and so we walked the several blocks to get a glimpse of them. The locals will tell you that these are historical monuments and that in the summer this area is swamped with tourist.

We turned the corner and in the middle of a small park were three beautiful and very small fountains. For a moment I was surprised by their size, expecting to see something like the Trevi fountains in Rome. We sat there for a few moments on a bench with a cool breeze and the warm sun and the most incredible thing began to happen. The fountains are a series of three small fountains interconnected by the flow of water. The first one was built in the 16th century and the last in the 19th century. They were at slightly different levels and as the water flowed over a series of rocks from one pool to another it made the most beautiful sound. And, while the fountains were nice, the sound of the water was exquisite.

We sat mesmerized for the longest time just listening. It was well worth the effort to have come. We held hands in silence and sat in the warm sun. We’re sure we heard violins playing.

Espana

This is such a rich country. Rich in history, rich in culture, rich in tradition and rich in it’s people. We think we shall never tire of all the things to do and learn while we are here.

Our home is strategically located in the rural town of Zuherios but we are less than an hour drive to Cordoba, Grenada, Malaga, and Luque (pop 400).

We have been to Cordoba and it is a grand place with beautiful churches, castles, monuments, and restaurants. The historical city, not unlike Jerusalem, is divided into quarters; the Jewish quarter, the Moorish quarter, and the Christian quarter. The history is deep and at times slightly quirky.

We found it quite interesting that one of the remaining synagogues had been converted to a mosque during the Moorish rule, than to a cathedral with the Christian leadership, then to a hospital for agoraphobics and now back to a synagogue for historical purpose. The architectures still show a little of each of the occupations.

Most days we meander. We have a book of walking trails so in the morning we pack up and head out. The trails are beautiful but

the directions we are given are what delight us the most. “Head along the path until it narrows between the two mountain passes. Stop on the rock plate and turn 180 degrees and you will see a subtle path. That is the one you are to follow. If you have passed the cave with the rock formation that looks like a friar you are heading the right direction.” We usually leave from our Hacienda and will inevitably walk through another little town to get home. Luis will always tell us where to stop and have a light lunch before heading home. He says the way you know a good taverna is by the floor. “There must be olive pits, cigarette butts, and trash on the floor. This is where the locals stop to meet with friends, to have a snack and cervesa before heading home for their siesta.” He was right; the places we stopped met his criteria and were the absolute best. Sometimes he will tell us the specialty of the town we are in and sometimes we just guess at what we are getting. For instance, afterour seven mile walk that landed us in Zuherios, we were told that we absolutely must have the “capra queso” which is hot goat cheese drizzled in olive oil and herbs with a glass of cold beer and warm bread. Fabulous! Other times we pick things off the menu that we have never tried before and so far we have not been disappointed.

We can rent bicycles for 6E a day and that takes us faster and farther. We actually prefer the walking, as we are able to see more and talk along the way. There is a trail that they call the Green Pathway and is actually the road that was once the old olive oil train road. It leads us through the small towns where we will stop and visit and get absorbed in their day-to-day life. People in these towns are very kind to us and as we leave we fill as if we are leaving friends.

We will head to Grenada in a few days, you need a reservation to get into the Alhambra Palace and this is holiday time in Espana (all Saints Week). We have a special day planned for Tom’s birthday.

We will hike in the morning and then have lunch at a very unique place. Luis tells us that we will go into the home of a family in a very rural area and they will provide a meal for us. We have a written note with our introduction and we will enjoy a rural Andalusian meal. We will let you know what it is when w get back!

We Are Back In Spain

We have found a lovely farmhouse AKA Hacienda in the town of Zuheros to stay for a while. It is between Cordoba and Grenada and it is perfect for us. The original property was built in the early 1800’s and was a major producer of olives and olive oil. Over the next century the olive business thrived in Spain and at one time this was the greatest area of olive production for all of Spain. The Hacienda fell in disarray in the late 1800’s but the property was kept for it’s olive crops. In 2004, Luis and his family purchased the property and over the last six years turned the property into a beautiful place to stay.

We are in the Andalusia region of Spain and this area is specifically known as La Subbetica and is a national wildlife preserve. Luis is proud of the accomplishments here. And, while he is renovating the place, he is reusing the original materials. It reflects the history of Spain with influence from the Christian and Moorish rule.

It is off the beaten path, which is what we look for. The only visitors here so far have been cyclist groups who stop here for a little rest and reprieve while on their way to somewhere else.

In the evenings, Luis gives us a cooking class (which includes lots of olive oil!) He also shows us how olive oil is made; from the picking of the olives to the crushing and oil extraction. We never realized how much work went into the making of olive oil but we do know that in this area the oil is outstanding and we are now eating it with everything. We appreciate his knowledge and feel as if we are getting to know Spain better by these cultural and history lessons.

We will head to Cordoba in a day or two and look forward to seeing the area. The weather continues to be perfect so we have planned a few day hikes and bicycle rides. There is the hope of a thundershower in a week and we are excited about that also.

Our bedroom is upstairs and when we open the wooden shutters we capture the beautiful morning sunrise. With this view we are sure there is no better place to be in a rainstorm then right here.

We’ll let you know!