Cirque du Battambang

When we heard that the circus was performing on Friday night in Battambang our curiosity was piqued. Having grown up with Ringling Bros and Barnum Bailey we could not imagine a event such as this in this small Cambodian town. We bought the tickets to satisfy our curiosity and we are so glad we did.

The circus is known as Phare, Ponlue, Selpak which translates to Fire, Life, and Art. It has the most beautiful origin. In 1988, while staying in a refugee camp on the Thai border, a group of children participated in a drawing workshop setup by a French visual arts teacher. The benefit to these children were innumerable and in 1992 the children reunited in Battanbang and began a performing school for the arts for the children of Anch Anh Village. This is an area of extreme poverty and many children  have been abandoned and left in this area. The school began with a gymnastic program and soon expanded it to encompass martial arts, music, theater, public school, and a circus acrobat school. The entire community is involved and now there are thirteen hundred students who attend school daily. There is a residential  home that provides care and shelter for the abandoned children or those who have been rescued from human trafficking. The proceeds from the circus performances along with donations fund these projects.

The circus is performed under a 'big top' tent and every seat is filled for tonights performances. There are many children in attendance and it is beautiful to hear their squeals of delight as the artists perform. They have fun here and it is a reprieve from the daily rigors of life in this small village. It was  beautiful and we felt privileged to be a part of it all.

An Old Soul

I was deep in thought as I surveyed all that the local market had to offer. This is the hub of the city and everyone is competing for your attention.The vendors work hard preparing their goods in hope that you will buy from them. You can not walk past them with out receiving an invitation of some kind. Amidst the excitement of all the busyness here I barely heard the small voice as she said, "I want no money Madame".  I wasn't quite sure I had heard correctly as this was the marketplace and your money is what they want and need. I looked around and again the small voice made the same request only this time she added, "I only want milk for my sister". Before me stood a small, nine year girl with an even smaller baby in her arms. I could not think of anything to say so I held out my hand and she led me away. We walked along the back streets and found a small market. We purchased a can of formula and she begin to tell me about her family. She was articulate in her conversations to me and held my hand the entire way as if to reassure me somehow that all was well with her.

We made our purchase and she walked me back to the spot she had approached me. She thanked me and asked for nothing more. In a few seconds she was lost in the crowd and I did not see her again. Except in my heart and prayers...

Battambang

We are in the city/province of Battambang, Cambodia and have stared to feel like locals around here. We have become quite aware of a daily event and can predict within minutes when it will occur. The sky will darken, the wind will pick up, and the air will smell moist. A rainstorm is coming. They happen every  day and we have become quite accustomed to the magnitude of these daily deluges. In fact, we have come to enjoy them.  Within minutes  of these  warning  signs the  rain will begin to fall.  It is our delight to be caught somewhere we haven't been before so we can take cover someplace we may not have otherwise stopped. We meet interesting people, often times in their home/shops and will share a bowl of soup or drink with them.

We are having  a wonderful time here. While it is considered a large city by Cambodian standards it has the feel of real life Cambodia. There are only a handful of 'tourist' attractions and even then the locals have to tell you about them and where they are. We wanted to ride the Bamboo or Norrie trains which had been built in the 1960's when the area was trying to reestablish itself after the  rule of the Khmer Rouge. These train tracks run through the heartland of this area and was the method used by the rice farmers to transport their rice through the countryside. The 'train' itself is actually a bamboo platform that sits on two metal rods with metal wheels. It is powered by something that looks like a lawn mower engine and while not always the smoothest ride, certainly one of the most exciting. We loved the part when you meet someone coming from the opposite  direction. Both parties stop and the incoming car gets of the track so  the outgoing car can pass.

 We took this train deep into the countryside one day and  went to a rice factory. Here we watched as they to took the dry rice and hulled and refined it and then packaged it in 50 pound bags. The entire process was incredibly fascinating. It is a time of religious  holiday for the school aged children and they are present in these factories and often times working along side their families. They knew a lot about the rice process and we found them delightful as they explained it to us.

We went to a winery one day and sampled the local wine and rice brandy. Not quite the same as ours but an enjoyable experience none the less. The winery is very small and you can walk it in it's entirety in fifteen minutes. It began producing marketable grapes a few years ago and they are just beginning to produce a yearly batch of wine.

We stopped along a village one day to watch a family make the rice paper wrap used in spring rolls. They still use the traditional method and everyone in the family participates. Rice is very slowly boiled over a low flame in huge pots. The rice softens and the water thickens and then the liquid is spread over a cloth that snuggly sits over another boiling pot of water. The rice mixture is spread very thin and covered with a lid to steam. Within seconds it is ready to be removed, carefully, and placed on a bamboo rack for drying. When the rack is full, it sits outside to dry before they are packaged and sold at the markets in town. Tedious work that the entire family partakes in.

Often times we ride our bikes or walk through town or the countryside. We enjoy the adventures of shopping for everyday items. I needed a piece of velcro the other day and we went from market to market until we found a tailor who knew what we were trying to ask for. It was fun trying to explain what velcro was.

At the end of the day we return to our Sanctuary where we are always greeted with a cool washcloth and a glass of tea. Our host asks us about our day and if there is anything else we need. We take a dip in the pool to cool and refresh ourselves. Sometimes we eat dinner in and sometimes our driver takes us into town and we eat at the outside market where the locals are eating. We wil miss this place and the familiarity we have grown accustom to.

We have our visa for Viet Nam and will head in that direction soon. We will take the bus to Phnom Penh and then head over to Ho Chi Minh City. We will spend sometime in the Mekong Delta area and then meander for a while before heading to Laos. We plan on spending Tom's birthday in Kuala Lumpur,  Maylasia and then head back to Singapore. We will let you know...

Sanctuary

After our days in Siem Reap we felt inclined to head to the small town of Battambang, Cambodia. No particular reason except we longed for slower paced days and an opportunity to merge into the culture and people that is Cambodia. And, while we had enjoyed being close to the hub of activity while in Siem Reap, we opted for a more rural destination for this venture. We chose The Sanctuary.

When I think of it, it seems only appropriate that this would be the place for us at this time. I found myself thinking the other day about our first sabbatical. We were on the Greek Island of Crete at a place called the Blue Beach. I remember the beauty of that place but more importantly was the fact that that day marked the four week anniversary from the day we had left. As I sat on that warm beach, surrounded by the beauty and serenity of the water, I felt myself escape from one life and into another. That had also been a time of change and transition for me as well.  I had gone from full time employment to part time and had used the time of travel to acclimate to the upcoming change and season of life that is semi-retirement. I again find myself on a similar journey and find that a Sanctuary is exactly what I need.

One of the things that makes these travels so successful for us is our ability to find the beauty and adventure of the moment we are in. People often ask where my favorite place has been and I always say the one I am in at the moment. We have to be flexible as our plans  often change by circumstances that we have no control over. We had planned to take a boat down the Mekong Delta to Viet Nam but there is extensive flooding in that area so we will find another way. We learn not to fret over these things but instead to embrace the change and new challenges and the  life experiences they will bring. We have never been disappointed.

So again, I am at this anniversary day... four weeks…twenty eight days…it feels like a lifetime has gone by since we left.  As we arrive our host meets us with an ice cool wash cloth infused in water and lemon grass to wipe the sweat and dust from our brow. He gives us a refreshing glass of lotus flower tea, iced,  in a beautiful silver cup and a plate of fresh fruit to quench our thirst and to nourish us. It has been a long journey and as I sit on the soft cushions  I am reminded in that moment that I am  under the care of One even Greater than my host. I am safe under His watch. He knows the plans He has for me. That change brings new opportunity to see and experience life differently.

As I sit in this sanctuary, I take the time to thank God for His Grace over me. I have a beautiful life and have richly enjoyed all the places it has taken me and embrace all that is yet to be. I am in  His sanctuary...

Apsara Dancers

We were invited to attend a performance given by the Angkor Dance Troupe and we are so thankful we had the opportunity to see this ancient Khmer dance form. It is a classical dance that is the Cambodian version of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. The dancer embodies the Khmer ideals of beauty, grace, and continuity - continuity not only between the past and present, but also between the realm of gods and that of men. These mythical stories and the way they are preformed have remained the same for nearly a thousand years. The temples at Angkor have these dancers etched into the stone all around the palace. Their performances were reserved for the King. It was an exquisite thing to see.

The evening began with an array of Khmer foods of our choosing. We tried things like fish amok, rice and banana pancakes, pineapple fried rice, jellies,  fresh spring rolls, and anything we had not tried before. It was a superb meal. The ancient musical instruments were played and in a few moments we were whisked back to another time and place. The dancers move very slowly and each movement  tells apart of the story. The outstretching of a hand could represent a leaf as it fell from a tree thus depicting a change in the seasons. I can not tell you how beautiful this was to see.

 And, contrary to what you might think,  we were able to understand the dance story by watching it in it's entirety.

It was a delightful evening and we felt as if we were royalty and these dancers were preforming for us  as they had performed for  Kings hundreds of years ago. It was an honor to view this part of Cambodian culture.

Life on the River

Today we took an expedition out to the Tonle Sap Lake area. This is Southeast Asia's largest body of fresh water and feeds  into the Mekong Delta. During the monsoon season the rivers that connect into the lake begin to swell and the size of the lake increases by nearly tenfold. The surrounding fields become flooded and becomes a rich breeding ground for this regions plentiful supply of fish. This body of water is the life source for nearly three million people.

It also the home to many displaced Vietnamese refugees who have taken residence up along these river ways. They live on small wooden house boats along the waters edge and are able to fish nine months out of the year to support themselves. There is a three month reprieve for the fish during their mating season and then only the fish you can eat can be caught. This changes their income significantly and they struggle in their poverty even more.

Anything you need can be found along the waters edge. Many markets float by and you can purchase your staples from any of them. Rice, oil, sugar and even some clothing items  are aboard these small floating vessels. We saw a pig farm where three large pigs lived on a raft waiting to be sent to slaughter. There are fish farms, alligator farms, and floating gardens all designed to sustain the many people living on the waters edge. Men and women were hand tying nets in preparation for the return of the fishing season. Mothers were bathing the children in the dirty waters and we could see all aspects of their lives as we went by.

There is a school on the water for orphaned and very poor children. They are often left here and  live at the school site where they are fed twice a day. We stopped and bought a case of soup noodles and took it to them. Here we watched as the women prepared lunch for them. There are seems to be more poverty in this area than we have seen thus far in our travels. It seems to be the only life these children have ever known. I had a small opportunity to teach about some of  the children's health issues but I know that there are many things they still need help with.

I know I will never forget the young boy who floated by in a wash tub and a stick. He had found a way to get around the water with his own vessel. As impressionable as the temples of Angkor were to me, so too are these impressions. And, while I have seen poverty before, I have not seen these beautiful faces.  My heart breaks...

Life is Not Measured

…by the breaths you take, but by the places and moments that take our breath away. The validity of these words are never more true than the moment you enter this wonder of the world…the ruins at Angkor Wat. They are stunning and majestic against the skyline and words or pictures can never capture all that is Angkor. When we were in Petra we felt the same way and the impression that these areas leave imprinted on your heart and soul are everlasting.

This area is a source of great pride for the Cambodians. It is more than outstanding architecture, it is their national symbol and the epicenter of their civilization. The history of this area is deep and has had many tumultuous times. We are just beginning to know it and find we have so much more to learn.

We have hired a tuk-tuk and driver for the next few days to drive us over to the Angkor Complex. It is a series of temples over 57 km area. Our driver is exquisite and familiar with this region and we are happy to be with him. His name is Talo and we have grown quite fond of him. We venture out early in the morning to beat the sweltering heat. This area has its daily rainfall in the morning so we are prepared. It is a nice reprieve from the heat which is ever present even in the early morning.

It is easy to get lost in your imagination as you head back to the ruins. The temple at Angkor was built during 1112-1152 as a Holy capital city and eventually the funerary temple of  King Suryavarman ll. We learned that one million workers labored over this monument for forty years before it was completed. It was grand in it's day and as we rode among the ruins we got lost in that bygone period. The cleverness and craftsmanship is profound. The surrounding area is well preserved and we are sure nothing much has changed since that day. It will take your breath away.

We bought a three day pass so we could meander over this area without feeling rushed. We wanted to take time to fully explore and savor it.  We averaged about ten miles of walking each day but woke the next morning excited to get up and explore. We have seen infamous sites that we had only seen in pictures before. The temples at Bayon  were one of my favorites. There are fifty four towers with a staggering 216 faces carved into them. It was incredible from every angle.

We went through the old bridge and  entered Angkor Thom. Herein lies Ta Prohm  which looks like a scene from an Indiana Jones movie.  It is a series of dark corridors and pillars that are seemingly held hostage by the gigantic roots of century old trees. It is like nothing we have seen before. We thought of our grandkids and what adventures they could have here.

We shoot picture after picture but find we can not capture all that is here. We climb up to the top a the hill one day just to watch the sunset at Phomn Bakheng. It was an arduous trek but the view was stunning and well worth our efforts.

We happened to be at the right place at the right time on another evening as the sun was setting over the temple at Angkor.  We met up with a group of physicians from Belgium and shared a glass of champagne with them as we watched the beauty at the end of the day. It seemed only fitting to watch the sunset in such a celebratory fashion.

We will take some time to meander around the Tonle Sap Lake area and get to know the ins and outs of Siem Reap. There is a lot to see and we are excited to discover more of this area. We will let you know...