Hornillos

Hornillos

We have left Burgos and officially entered the meseta. The meseta is the high plains area of Spain and, interestingly, a place avoided by some traveling the Camino. It came as a bit of a surprise to us that some people actually leave the Camino to bypass this area and reconnect later on the trail. It can be hot in the summer and windy this time of year. A lot of people think that after the beauty of the first part of the Camino this pales in comparison. We think it is beautiful in its own way.

A fellow traveller told us that the first part of the Camino is for your body (physical strength), the second part (the meseta) is for your mind and the third part is for your heart. We tend to agree and as we travel miles of this high plain area we have time to think of many things.

Although we have never been to Hornillos before we know of this place. We had heard of a local priest who had been a missionary to Zaire (DR Congo) and was killed during the revolution. We took the opportunity today to see the monument his village placed in his honor. For this small village it was quite sensational that a local priest was sent on this particular mission and to lose his life on that mission has never been forgotten.

It is quiet here and we are well rested after our holiday in Burgos. We are staying in a Casa Rural and are enjoying fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, and wine provided by our host. The breeze is cool, the sun is warm on our backs and we are thinking of you...

Buen Camino.

Accidental Tourist

Accidental Tourist

We left Ages early in the morning so we could reach Burgos by noon and spend the day sight seeing. We had familiarized ourselves with the area and were excited to see what was in this city. Since both Pamploma and Logrono were considered tourist areas as well as Burgos, we looked forward to our time here. Our friends Pepe and Victor were a day ahead of us and had made some recommendations of places to see.

It was Sunday after church when we arrived and the day of the El Cid festival. There were thousands of people out in the plaza. I have to admit it was a bit overwhelming after being on the trail for the last several days where I knew or at least recognized most people along the way. We decided to stay in a hotel and chose one rather randomly. It was a lovely four star hotel which honored the fact that we were pilgrims. We quickly cleaned up and walked to the plaza where we enjoyed some tapas. I'm not sure what happened exactly but suddenly after seeing so many unrecognizable people I began to cry. Right in the middle of everything. I was missing my familiar. I realized that we have been living a very simple and predictable life on the road. I was missing the simplicity of my daily routine and the beauty of the stillness around me. I found that I wanted my familiar. We went back to our room and took a nice long bath and laid down for a siesta. Something about the cool clean sheets and the down comforter also felt very soothing and familiar. We rested well and got up for dinner. We met a couple of our friends and all of us had had a similar feeling about being in the city again with all of its busyness.

I woke up in the middle of the night and realized that I have been looking for balance in my life. For hours each day one way or another I have been praying for this very thing. I realized today that I am still in a training program. While I have begun to feel comfortable with the ease and routine of my days not all my days will be this simple and predictable. I will not always live a life of solitude but what I want is to live my life simply. I know this will be a process and will take some work on my part.

We stayed in Burgos an extra day. We accidentally became tourist. We meandered through the plaza, into the cathedrals and museums, and just enjoyed a leisurely time. We will ready ourselves for tomorrow and then hit the road again. We are learning so much along the way.

  Buen Camino.

Santo Domingo to Tosantos

Santo Domingo to Tosantos

Santo Domingo was stunning and when it came time to leave we knew we would miss this beautiful area. We ejoyed a late lunch in the plaza, Tom had a pizza and I had yellow asparagus. We picked up our packs and headed...west. We were not sure where we would stay the night but when we neared Tosantos we knew this would be the place. There is only one albergue and it is a parish run hostel. The moment we entered we were given a glass of cool water and a soft place to sit. Our hosts, Fabian and Miguel, took our packs up the stairs and explained what the activities of the evening would be.

First, there would be a tour of the church which was built into the mountain side in the 17th century. Then, as a group, we would cook paella for dinner. If we desired, there would be a pilgrim blessing in the small chapel before bed. It seemed low keyed and a perfect plan for the evening.

We treked up the hill to the small church. It was incredible. We were asked not to take photos inside. Instead, we were to let the impressions of what we saw here burn a place in our heart and then asked to remember the people of this church in our prayers. There are no words that describe the inside of that small church. It was simple compared to others we had seen but you could tell that this place was considered Holy by those who entered and cared for it. We were so honored to be able to go inside.

Our dinner was fantastic! Hot paella, fresh salad, good bread, soup, wine, and fruit. It was lovely. Everybody pitched in and then our hosts served us. It was humbling to be served by these two men who had worked very hard to prepare for us. As we ate, each country represented had the opportunity to sing their country's national song. Eight countries were represented and it was beautiful and fun listening to everyone sing.

We had a time of prayer and blessing following dinner. Each of us read a letter left behind from a previous pilgrim in our own language. These letters contained prayer requests and it gave us a moment to remember other pilgrims on this pilgrimage and the needs they may have. Although a lot of languages were being spoken it was a very spiritual moment for all.

This was a beautiful experience for us. We are thankful that for a moment this was the place we called home. Buen Camino.

 

 

Santo Domingo de la Cazada

Santo Domingo de la Cazada

This afternoon we found ourselves in Santo Domingo de la Cazada. It is considered the heart of the Camino because of Saint Domingo's influence in this area. When Domingo was a young man he wanted to enter the monastery and become a priest. For reasons unknown he was refused but chose instead to dedicate his life to the service of others. Specifically, he cared for the pilgrims who walked along the way to Santiago de Compestella. It is said he built the pilgrims hospital whose remains are still visible today and the bridge that crosses over the river Oja.

We set our packs down and toured the cathedral and tower. They were built in the 11th and 12th century and are stunning. One of the most interesting exhibits in the cathedral is a chicken coop which contain two live fowl. It relates to the story of the Miracle of the Cock. Embellished over the years, it has become one of the more endearing legends along the Way of St James. Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their handsome son were traveling along the Way when an innkeepers daughter became smitten with the young man. He spurned her advances and in her humiliation she hid a silver goblet in his rucksack and accused him of stealing it. Unbeknown to his parents he was hung but his life was spared by Santo Domingo who's sole purpose was to care and rescue pilgrims along the Way. He was found hanging from the gallows but miraculously still alive. When they went to report this to the sheriff he was just about to eat dinner. He retorted that their son could no more be alive than the cock he was about to eat, when suddenly the cock stood up and crowed. Hence, a rooster remains in the cathedral to this day.

The antiquity of this area is remarkable and we are in awe of all that is around us. Our journey is not just the acquisition of miles and credential stamps. It is stopping along the way to enjoy what is around us. Our thoughts are now focused on what is to see and experience as opposed to where we will lay our heads for the evening. We are experiencing all God would have for us and trusting that at the end of each day we are exactly where we need to be. It is so very freeing...

Not sure where we will lay our heads tonight...but it will be good for sure.

  Buen Camino.

Life in Balance

Life in Balance

As we entered Viana in the early evening we had walked nearly twenty-three miles. We had felt so rested the day before we opted to go a little further than we had planned and then take a short walk into Logrono the next day so we could spend some time sight seeing. I have come to love the spontaneity of our days and the ease in which we can make our plans.

Along the way we have met many people and have enjoyed our time spent with them. What I find fascinating are the reasons people have chosen to walk along the way. Some are here out of tragic loss, unexpected changes in life or career, some for the adventure, and others, for time. Time to think about life and get a perspective on it that wasn't there before.

Today we are in Logrono. Logrono is a good sized city with a population of about 130,000. It is part of the Rioja region which is infamous for it's wine production. The last week of September is their annual wine festival. Our timing is exquisite although most of the big events are winding down. We can concur, the wine here is some of the best we have ever tasted.

What is first and foremost on my mind today is the balance in life. Working hard...resting well...living deeply and richly. Being joyous in all seasons of life. Today it is my most prevalent thought. I want my Life in balance...


So our boots are off, our packs laid down and we are exploring the area. We are having tapas with some fellow pilgrims and then, perhaps a little siesta. Looking forward to what lies ahead...and the delight of just being.

Buen Camino.

Albergues

Albergues

I wanted to take a moment and tell you a little bit about the albergues we have stayed in. Albergues are the housing accommodations for the peregrinos. There are a variety of types and we are experiencing as many as we can and have enjoyed each and every one of them.

First, there are the municipal albergues and they are the most basic. They are also the least expensive and usually run about 5-10E per person per night. We stayed in one of these on our third night and we found ourselves sleeping with about 20 people we had not yet met. This was quickly remedied at bedtime when we met the people we were soon to be sleeping with up close and personal.


There are some private alburgues in which you share a room but these usually house less people per room than the municipal. We found ourselves in a beautiful private albergue in Ventosa. It was like a beautiful dream with only four other people.






We have stayed in some Casa de Rural which really is a lovely farmhouse and we usually have the whole place to ourselves. This really is our favorite but we are content where ever we are because we are together and this not the way we usually spend our evenings. We are open to the adventure this travel brings.

We have stayed in some churches and monasteries and these are beautiful in their own way. They only except donativo or donations for our stay and our dinner and breakfast. Everyone pitches in on the preparations for dinner and we love the sense of community in these places. This reminds me of our Sunday afternoon family lunches and it is, as if for a brief moment, I get a piece of home. It is also special because of the blessings and prayers over the pilgrims. We had some of the best paella while in the Hospital de Peregrinos St Francis de Assi. Here we slept on the floor on soft mats with about 15 other people. It was one of the best nights sleep we both had.



One of the places we stayed in was called 'House of the Rising Sun' and it actually played music from the era of that song. It was lovingly referred to as the 'hippy' place and Ernesto, the guy who runs the place, was kind and loving to each of us.

I think the very best thing about this kind of travel is that neither of us worry where we will lay our head as night falls. We are taken care of and we are exactly where we are supposed to be.

Buen Camino!

Logrono to Ventosa

Logrono to Ventosa

Today we left Logrono and walked nearly fourteen miles to the quaint town of Ventosa. We had considered traveling a bit further today but this little village nestled in the middle of some of the most spectacular grape vineyards captivated us almost immediately. We are staying and already we have set out to explore.

I have noticed a change in the way our days seem to enfold. In the beginning of our journey we seemed to be more focused on the task of our  destination. How far to walk, where to stay the night, who we would meet and where predominated our thoughts. As we enter our tenth day we have definitely picked up the spirit of the true pilgrim. When asked where we are going we reply that we don't as of yet...we will see where the spirit leads us. We have been exactly where we are supposed to be each and every day.

We stayed at a lovely abergue and we were awakened by the sound of the most beautiful Gregorian chants playing through the hallways. It was like a beautiful dream.

We are off today...not quite sure where but I know it will be perfect.

Buen Camino