Galacia

Galicia

We have officially crossed into Galicia. In Spain, the country is divided into regions and each of these areas are so distinct you might think you have entered into another country. The beauty of the meseta (Castillo de Leon) is quickly replaced by a region that is lush and green and reminiscent of its Celtic roots. Everything from the language to the style of their homes and the foods they eat has changed completely.


The mountains of Galicia are the first object in about 3,100 miles that the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic Ocean hit so the weather is typically cooler. It is easy to see the Celtic influence in this area with its small, intimate fields delineated with old stone fences and lush pastures which are grazed by sheep, pigs, geese, chicken, and cattle. I found it interesting that they shelter all of their livestock under their homes. The villages in these areas appear isolated but when I spoke to a young man who lives here he says that this area is thriving and that there are many young families who continue to stay in this area. It is beautiful...

Amidst the ever changing landscape there is a constant. The Camino de Santiago meanders through this landscape and like days of old brings many people to this area. The Way is continuous, unbroken, and yet, parts of it are changing. The constant is the sound of footsteps which is the heartbeat of this pilgrimage. I am in awe that I am here and apart of something that has been around for over 1500 years.

  Buen Camino.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Villafranca del Bierzo

As we entered this small village nestled in the foothills of the Sierra de O Courel mountain range we thought we were dreaming. It seems to be the best of all worlds and looked like something out of a fairytale. Green hills, gold and red valleys and a small village nestled in between. We were excited as we entered this area and very happy to be here.
This area is well known for it's wine production and agriculture. Because of the prime weather conditions here many types of fruit and vegetables grow abundantly. The fields are stunning and the soil rich and fertile as we walk through this areas.

I think the real beauty here is the people we met. We had intended on staying in an albergue in the middle of town. We usually choose an area near the center because that is where the cathedrals are located. When you find the church you find the plaza and hub of the city. Our spot of choice had burnt down a few months prior and now we needed to find another place. This is not terribly complicated, we just had to walk and find it. We ended up one street off the plaza in an old beautiful neighborhood checking our map when a lovely young woman asked if we needed some help. When we told her our dilemma, she invited us in to her home which had just been renovated into a home for pilgrims. It was one of the most beautiful homes I have ever seen and an honor to stay with this family and call this our home for the day.

We loved our time here and will always hold this place in our heart. We spent our evening in the plaza dining with friends and when we returned home they had a warm fire waiting for us. We warmed ourselves by the fire while enjoying some local wine and figs. They played the guitar for us and we listened to the most beautiful music. This moment permeated our souls and we will carry it onward with us.. These are the times I miss you the most, in the moments that touch my heart to it's core.

You are loved. Buen Camino.

Ponferrada

Ponferrada

We are comfortable with the ebb and flow of our days. There are times we plan our distances based on where we want to spend our afternoon and evenings. Today we chose Ponferrada so we could spend some time in this area and visit the museum and castle of the Templar Knights. Our friends Victor and Pepe had told us about this and so we are curious to see what is here.

We walked about 12 miles today over a mountainous terrain and then straight down a shale path. As we approached the 'city' it started to look a lot like Napa Valley in the fall. The colors are vivid and are all my favorite colors-the colors of fall.

This area is infamous because the Templar Knights were once headquartered here. It seems that during the 11th and 12th century there was a three-tier class system. Royalty, The Knights, and the laborers or peasants. The function of The Knights were to protect the working class and interestingly, the pilgrims as they passed through. In those days, Pilgrims were considered potential prospects for the trade market and could easily be exploited. One of the functions of the knights was to protect them along the way so they could complete their journey without being held captive. There seems to be some mystery surrounding these Knights and the stone masons and when we return home we will research this history more fully. It is interesting and we look forward to studying this piece of history.

We will head to Villafranca Del Bierz tomorrow. Only about 17 miles...

Buen Camino. We are thinking of you each and every step.

Rabanal del Camino

Rabanal del Camino

I am not sure what happens as we enter into these small towns but this one quickly became one of my favorites. It looked more French then Spanish and as we walked through the streets we could quickly sense there was something special about this town and its people. When we walked into the Casa Rural we were hot and sweaty. We were quickly shown our room and our hostess offered us cool drinks and then offered to do our laundry for us. I am not sure why this is so moving and heart warming to me but it almost always makes me weep as they care for us. We picked up some fresh fruits and vegetables from her little mercado and proceeded to have a picnic lunch.

We had heard that the monks in the monastery were going to sing vespers in Latin in church that evening. I can not even begin to tell how beautiful and sacred this sounds. They are reciting some of the Psalms and their beautiful, pure voices resonate in a way that may you think you are listening to angels singing in heaven. We were very moved.

There is one restaurant in town and we met up for a lovely dinner. Our group consists of Australians, Canadians, an English couple and ourselves. We enjoyed lively conversations and delicious food.

I find myself thinking of you in these beautiful places. Longing to share this with you...looking forward to the times we are together again. You are loved...

Buen Camino.

Astorga

Astorga

Astorga is a lively city which sits atop a steep ridge. It is both modern and quaint and surrounded by medieval walls and ancient architecture. It's notoriety began in the 11th century where the convergence of the French Way aka The Camino Frances, the Roman Way aka The Calzada Romana, the southern route from Sevilla aka Camino Mozarabe came together. It became a very popular trade route and a place known for its care of pilgrims along the way.

In the late 1800's the famous architect Antonio Gaudi was summoned to Astorga to oversee the building of the palace for the Bishop at that time. It was built in the traditional Gaudi fashion and interestingly enough is the current Museo de los Caminos (Museum of the Pilgrims Way).

Astorga is also the home of some of the best chocolate in Spain and I can personally attest to that. We enjoyed a lovely day and evening in this area. Many of the locals insisted we try the food specialty in the area and so we conceded. We enjoyed Cocido Maragata. It is a four course meal which consists of (and in this order): sliced tomatoes with olive oil and vinegar, fresh bread, seven different kinds of meat and I can only identify one of them-chicken (I think), a plate of chick peas, cabbage, and potatoes, chicken vegetable soup, custard with cinnamon and wine,water and a liqueur drink and coffee. It was phenomenal and we will not need to eat for three days.

Tomorrow we head to Rabanal del Camino. We will begin the upward trek over the mountains and toward Galicia. Galicia is the region that first feels the winds of the Atlantic Ocean. Change is coming...we are ready. We think of you each and everyday.

Wishing you a Buen Camino.

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to Astorga

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to Astorga

When we left Leon we had our days planned. One day to VIllare de Manziffe and then onward to Astorga. A funny thing happened along our way. We stopped in Hospital de Camino...and stayed. It was 1:00 in the afternoon when we entered town and as we were about to leave we just stopped and said this was the place for us. Nothing could have been more true or right.

We stayed at the Albergue San Miguel. We knew when the hospitalerio (host) Alberto offered us a comfortable seat and glass of wine we were in the right place. He gave us our room and quickly offered to wash our clothes for us. His kindness towards us will never be forgotten. We had some refreshments and then begin to explore the town.

We were in the right place at the right time. A traditional Spanish Maragata wedding was happening in the plaza and we were there. We were invited to stay and we did. It was so exciting to watch and participate in. There was dancing, fireworks, and incredible cultural festivities. We had so much fun.

We have been the recipients of so much kindness and favor. We never know where each day will bring us but we know that we are exactly where we are supposed to be. We thank our God for His goodness to us as we find delight along our way. It was a spectacular day.

Buen Camino. You are loved so very much.

We Have a New Traveling Family

We Have a New Traveling Family

When we arrived in Leon we had decided to spend a few days to rest our bones and to just enjoy the area. Some of our traveling family did the same and others chose to move on so they could complete their walk on their own schedules. When we set out we chose the alternate route and noticed that we were the only people we knew. Leon is also the starting place for new peregrinos so there were many new faces along the way today.

We finished the day in Villar de Mazarife and to say it way lovely would be an understatement. The area is exquisite but our hosts were extraordinary. A hodge-podge of people came together under the roof of Pepe and his wife and after a lovely dinner and stimulating conversations we became family.

There are so many blessings for us along this way. We learn so much from those we meet...about life, love, and the pursuit of happiness. We love the people we come to know and enjoy their company immensely. Looking forward to what is ahead.

 Buen Camino.