The Zero Kilometer

Once we entered into Spain the trail markers along the way begin to tell us the kilometers remaining before our arrival to Santiago. I have to admit this is very encouraging as you watch the kilometers whittle away and know you are making progress towards your goal.

It was a very different walk for us this year in many ways. We were different, our reasons for walking were different, and I think what God would have for us was very different. I was not sure what to expect when we walked into Santiago.

When we crossed the border from Portugal to Spain I wept. I have to admit I was proud of this accomplishment. If I had not walked any further I would have been content. But, we did walk further and when we walked into Santiago I felt the same rush of emotion. It is like graduating from college. For what seems like the longest time you do all these little bits of work and finally it all comes together. You've finished and for just a moment you get to acknowledge the completion of something you have worked so hard to attain. We entered the city from the Southwest this time which is a route less travelled by most of the pilgrims. We were the only ones walking in this way and we just held each others hand as we did so. There was something beautiful in the solitude and I think it held greater significance to me than if we had walked in with others. When you attend the pilgrims mass one of the things they say to you is it is a good thing you have done. Those words are the most meaningful to me. Tom and I said it to each other as we entered the cathedral plaza and spoke words of gratitude and kindness to each other before we walked on down to the zero kilometer mark.

While those words are the most meaningful to me the most meaningful celebration is the lighting and swinging of the botafumeria. In the past when pilgrims left their homelands they may have walked for several months or years before they completed their pilgrimage. They may have slept in stables or outdoors and may not have had the luxury to bathe every night. The botafumeria contained both incense and disinfectant for those who attended. Now it is a glimpse into a bygone era and for whatever reasons it moves my heart in a way I can not explain. It is stunning to watch as the monks, in their dark red robes, work in unison to get the huge incense burner up in the air and swing it across the entire lenght of the cathedral. It is a well orchestrated event and must be done to perfection. When it is over I feel as if this part of my journey is complete.

We will wait a day or to see if the weather clears before we decide to walk on. For now we will relish this moment. No decisions need to be made nor do we have to be anyplace. We will just enjoy these moments of celebrations. We are a few days away from Tom's 74th birthday. I can think of no better place to celebrate.

We are thinking of you...Buen Camino.