Galacia

Galicia

We have officially crossed into Galicia. In Spain, the country is divided into regions and each of these areas are so distinct you might think you have entered into another country. The beauty of the meseta (Castillo de Leon) is quickly replaced by a region that is lush and green and reminiscent of its Celtic roots. Everything from the language to the style of their homes and the foods they eat has changed completely.


The mountains of Galicia are the first object in about 3,100 miles that the westerly winds coming across the Atlantic Ocean hit so the weather is typically cooler. It is easy to see the Celtic influence in this area with its small, intimate fields delineated with old stone fences and lush pastures which are grazed by sheep, pigs, geese, chicken, and cattle. I found it interesting that they shelter all of their livestock under their homes. The villages in these areas appear isolated but when I spoke to a young man who lives here he says that this area is thriving and that there are many young families who continue to stay in this area. It is beautiful...

Amidst the ever changing landscape there is a constant. The Camino de Santiago meanders through this landscape and like days of old brings many people to this area. The Way is continuous, unbroken, and yet, parts of it are changing. The constant is the sound of footsteps which is the heartbeat of this pilgrimage. I am in awe that I am here and apart of something that has been around for over 1500 years.

  Buen Camino.

Villafranca del Bierzo

Villafranca del Bierzo

As we entered this small village nestled in the foothills of the Sierra de O Courel mountain range we thought we were dreaming. It seems to be the best of all worlds and looked like something out of a fairytale. Green hills, gold and red valleys and a small village nestled in between. We were excited as we entered this area and very happy to be here.
This area is well known for it's wine production and agriculture. Because of the prime weather conditions here many types of fruit and vegetables grow abundantly. The fields are stunning and the soil rich and fertile as we walk through this areas.

I think the real beauty here is the people we met. We had intended on staying in an albergue in the middle of town. We usually choose an area near the center because that is where the cathedrals are located. When you find the church you find the plaza and hub of the city. Our spot of choice had burnt down a few months prior and now we needed to find another place. This is not terribly complicated, we just had to walk and find it. We ended up one street off the plaza in an old beautiful neighborhood checking our map when a lovely young woman asked if we needed some help. When we told her our dilemma, she invited us in to her home which had just been renovated into a home for pilgrims. It was one of the most beautiful homes I have ever seen and an honor to stay with this family and call this our home for the day.

We loved our time here and will always hold this place in our heart. We spent our evening in the plaza dining with friends and when we returned home they had a warm fire waiting for us. We warmed ourselves by the fire while enjoying some local wine and figs. They played the guitar for us and we listened to the most beautiful music. This moment permeated our souls and we will carry it onward with us.. These are the times I miss you the most, in the moments that touch my heart to it's core.

You are loved. Buen Camino.

Ponferrada

Ponferrada

We are comfortable with the ebb and flow of our days. There are times we plan our distances based on where we want to spend our afternoon and evenings. Today we chose Ponferrada so we could spend some time in this area and visit the museum and castle of the Templar Knights. Our friends Victor and Pepe had told us about this and so we are curious to see what is here.

We walked about 12 miles today over a mountainous terrain and then straight down a shale path. As we approached the 'city' it started to look a lot like Napa Valley in the fall. The colors are vivid and are all my favorite colors-the colors of fall.

This area is infamous because the Templar Knights were once headquartered here. It seems that during the 11th and 12th century there was a three-tier class system. Royalty, The Knights, and the laborers or peasants. The function of The Knights were to protect the working class and interestingly, the pilgrims as they passed through. In those days, Pilgrims were considered potential prospects for the trade market and could easily be exploited. One of the functions of the knights was to protect them along the way so they could complete their journey without being held captive. There seems to be some mystery surrounding these Knights and the stone masons and when we return home we will research this history more fully. It is interesting and we look forward to studying this piece of history.

We will head to Villafranca Del Bierz tomorrow. Only about 17 miles...

Buen Camino. We are thinking of you each and every step.

Rabanal del Camino

Rabanal del Camino

I am not sure what happens as we enter into these small towns but this one quickly became one of my favorites. It looked more French then Spanish and as we walked through the streets we could quickly sense there was something special about this town and its people. When we walked into the Casa Rural we were hot and sweaty. We were quickly shown our room and our hostess offered us cool drinks and then offered to do our laundry for us. I am not sure why this is so moving and heart warming to me but it almost always makes me weep as they care for us. We picked up some fresh fruits and vegetables from her little mercado and proceeded to have a picnic lunch.

We had heard that the monks in the monastery were going to sing vespers in Latin in church that evening. I can not even begin to tell how beautiful and sacred this sounds. They are reciting some of the Psalms and their beautiful, pure voices resonate in a way that may you think you are listening to angels singing in heaven. We were very moved.

There is one restaurant in town and we met up for a lovely dinner. Our group consists of Australians, Canadians, an English couple and ourselves. We enjoyed lively conversations and delicious food.

I find myself thinking of you in these beautiful places. Longing to share this with you...looking forward to the times we are together again. You are loved...

Buen Camino.

Astorga

Astorga

Astorga is a lively city which sits atop a steep ridge. It is both modern and quaint and surrounded by medieval walls and ancient architecture. It's notoriety began in the 11th century where the convergence of the French Way aka The Camino Frances, the Roman Way aka The Calzada Romana, the southern route from Sevilla aka Camino Mozarabe came together. It became a very popular trade route and a place known for its care of pilgrims along the way.

In the late 1800's the famous architect Antonio Gaudi was summoned to Astorga to oversee the building of the palace for the Bishop at that time. It was built in the traditional Gaudi fashion and interestingly enough is the current Museo de los Caminos (Museum of the Pilgrims Way).

Astorga is also the home of some of the best chocolate in Spain and I can personally attest to that. We enjoyed a lovely day and evening in this area. Many of the locals insisted we try the food specialty in the area and so we conceded. We enjoyed Cocido Maragata. It is a four course meal which consists of (and in this order): sliced tomatoes with olive oil and vinegar, fresh bread, seven different kinds of meat and I can only identify one of them-chicken (I think), a plate of chick peas, cabbage, and potatoes, chicken vegetable soup, custard with cinnamon and wine,water and a liqueur drink and coffee. It was phenomenal and we will not need to eat for three days.

Tomorrow we head to Rabanal del Camino. We will begin the upward trek over the mountains and toward Galicia. Galicia is the region that first feels the winds of the Atlantic Ocean. Change is coming...we are ready. We think of you each and everyday.

Wishing you a Buen Camino.

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to Astorga

A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to Astorga

When we left Leon we had our days planned. One day to VIllare de Manziffe and then onward to Astorga. A funny thing happened along our way. We stopped in Hospital de Camino...and stayed. It was 1:00 in the afternoon when we entered town and as we were about to leave we just stopped and said this was the place for us. Nothing could have been more true or right.

We stayed at the Albergue San Miguel. We knew when the hospitalerio (host) Alberto offered us a comfortable seat and glass of wine we were in the right place. He gave us our room and quickly offered to wash our clothes for us. His kindness towards us will never be forgotten. We had some refreshments and then begin to explore the town.

We were in the right place at the right time. A traditional Spanish Maragata wedding was happening in the plaza and we were there. We were invited to stay and we did. It was so exciting to watch and participate in. There was dancing, fireworks, and incredible cultural festivities. We had so much fun.

We have been the recipients of so much kindness and favor. We never know where each day will bring us but we know that we are exactly where we are supposed to be. We thank our God for His goodness to us as we find delight along our way. It was a spectacular day.

Buen Camino. You are loved so very much.

We Have a New Traveling Family

We Have a New Traveling Family

When we arrived in Leon we had decided to spend a few days to rest our bones and to just enjoy the area. Some of our traveling family did the same and others chose to move on so they could complete their walk on their own schedules. When we set out we chose the alternate route and noticed that we were the only people we knew. Leon is also the starting place for new peregrinos so there were many new faces along the way today.

We finished the day in Villar de Mazarife and to say it way lovely would be an understatement. The area is exquisite but our hosts were extraordinary. A hodge-podge of people came together under the roof of Pepe and his wife and after a lovely dinner and stimulating conversations we became family.

There are so many blessings for us along this way. We learn so much from those we meet...about life, love, and the pursuit of happiness. We love the people we come to know and enjoy their company immensely. Looking forward to what is ahead.

 Buen Camino.

Beautiful Days

Beautiful Days

We had a delightful evening before we left Leon. We dined in a place where the locals eat and the gentleman who seated us also cooked and served us. We were a bit early for dinner...8:00 which is early by European standards but since we wanted an early morning start we decided to try to find a place that accommodated peregrinos. We did and it was a fantastic dinner.

We enjoyed a lovely breakfast before we checked out of our hotel room. We left the city and its beautiful architecture and quickly the landscape began to change. Gone were the stunning cathedrals of old quickly to be replaced by the beautiful colors of fall in Spain.

We chose the alternate route today which is a bit longer but goes through the countryside. I can not describe how beautiful the area was as we watched the sun and clouds change the color of the miles of countryside along side us. It was spectacular and we would go for hours without speaking while just trying to capture the beauty of these moments. The hues of the land would change from silver to gold and then to green and blue with just the movement of the clouds. We were lost in our thoughts and quickly fifteen miles went by.

We had lunch in Fresno del Camino even though it was a bit out of our way because we liked the name of the town. We are spending the night in Villar de Mazarife and will head to Astorga tomorrow which is about twenty two miles away.

Looking forward to tomorrow and living in the beauty that is around me.

Buen Camino. You are loved...

Sahagun to Leon

Sahagan to Leon

We were intentional in our plans to enter Sahagun early in the afternoon. There was a 100% chance of rain and on the meseta this is usually accompanied with ferocious winds. Either one of those things can wear you out over a period of time but the combination takes it toll rather quickly. If the rain did appear as predicted, we would lodge in Sahagun. If not, we would go on.

 The rains appeared and we had a lovely day in Sahagun which is considered the half way mark of the Camino Frances.
We checked into a little Hostal which in this case was like checking into a small cave. I mean a really nice cave. I was feeling cold which for me is unusual even in rainy, windy weather. Our host took our wet clothes and washed and dried them for us. We were given a down comforter, took a hot shower and then a lovely siesta.

When we awoke we took a walk to the place where the Camino Frances and the Camino Madrid meet. This is just past the halfway mark of the Camino Frances and you can get a Half Compestella if you chose. We opted to wait for our complete Compestella when we complete our journey.

We travelled onward through the small town of Puente Canto which is legendary in this area. First, it houses the infamous five arch bridge which was built before the 11th century and still stands today. Secondly, and I rather like this story, there is a grove of poplar trees known as The Copse of Charlemagne's Lances. Legend has it that the lances of his troops turned into these very trees and were meant as reminder of his superiority on the battlefield. Those trees stand today in perfect alignment.

We traveled through many small villages before we landed in Leon. We looked forward to a time of resting our bones for a bit and have checked into a lovely old Inn in the center of the old city. We are warm and dry and have spent our days exploring this city with a magnificent history.

We heard the nuns sing vespers and spent the day in the infamous cathedrals and cloisters of Leon. We visited the museums and of course, the tapa bars.

We are having our siesta for the day and then head out for a little nightlife. Tomorrow we are back on the road...you are thought of and loved so very much.

Buen Camino.

Way Signs

Way Signs

One of things we needed to understand and fully appreciate as we embarked on this journey was the value of the way signs. These are the identifying markers that mark the way and point you in the direction should go. It is important to recognize and watch for them as they will lead you out of one country and across another.

Traditionally, it is a yellow arrow that points you into the direction you need to be going. In the countryside you can find these on everything from trees to rocks and sometimes even on the earthen walls. In some places rocks are arranged in the shape of an arrow and we must follow these. These markers lead us into the small villages along the way where we find food, shelter, rest, drink, and whatever else we may need to sustain us. When it is time to move forward they lead us onward.
In the bigger cities we look for both the yellow arrows and the symbolic conch shell. These shells are often brass and are universally recognized as a directional marker. Each of the bigger cities have some variation on how the shell is displayed (on the walls or on the road) but the symbol is recognizable to all.

When we leave early in the mornings it is often dark. In those early mornings and through out my days I find myself praying to see those signs so I will not lose my way. I watch for them and am quick to heed the directions they have for me. I have come to depend on them and trust that they will take me exactly where I need to be. I am becoming attuned to the direction they are leading me and can, at times, sense if I am off track.

I have hours each day to think of this and know who truly is My Way, My Truth, and My Light. I am thankful for this time.

Buen Camino.

I've Had a Change of Heart

I've Had a Change of Heart

For those of you who know me well, you may find what I am about to say hard to believe. There are not many things that are hard for me to live with but I do have a slight aversion to a couple of things. Namely, snails and slugs. I am here to say that Spain has the most beautiful snails I have ever seen.

I began to notice beautiful, small, white shelled and body snails as we left France. They looked like small pearls as they clung to the branches of the plants along the way. I tried to ignore them as there were hundreds of them and I don't (ever) want a snail to dominate my thoughts. But as we meandered into Spain I accidentally noticed they were changing and becoming colorful. I even stopped to take a picture of one which for me is a first. I have since become fascinated by these beautiful creatures. I have even stopped cringing when I walk past them.

Not all snails will look like these I know. They don't have too. The thing that has changed is my perception of snails. It reminded me of how a change in perception can change almost anything. For the most part, our day to day lives don't change much. What changes is the way we look at things. Sometimes the change in our perception can change the course of our lives. I am thankful a small snail reminded me of this.

Now slugs...that's a different matter! Still working on that.

 Buen Camino.

Villacazar de Sirga and (Until Recently) Other Unknown Places

Villacazar de Sirga and (Until Recently) Other Unknown Places

One of the things that happens daily is the coming together of our fellow travelers. We may stay in different places along the way but we eventually catch up with each other at a meal or break time. Here we catch up with each others travels, any interesting places to see or things to do, or just how everyone is faring. It is quite lovely and feels like family coming together.

Until yesterday we had never heard of Villacazar de Sirga. Over coffee in the morning we heard about the Templar Church that was in this small village that we would be walking through later in the day. We made plans to stop and check it out. Villacaza de Sirga is a small town with a population of 216 and is well known for its hospitality having welcomed pilgrims since the 12th century when it became the commandry of the Knights Templar. The town is home to the Templar Church of Santa Maria la Virgen Blanca and houses the tombs of nobles and royalty. It was phenomenal to walk through this place.

We passed through the Canal de Castillo which is a canal system with 50 locks. During the 18th century it was exclusively designed for irrigation purposes and for the transportation of crops. Later, it was used to power the corn mills in this area. It was beautiful to see as we walk by.

After Carrion we walked along the original road to Santiago which was used nearly 2000 years ago. This road was built by the Romans and over 10,000 tons of rock were used to lift the road above flood levels. Our feet touched the ground of those who have walked along this way for over two millennium. It was beautiful and humbling.

We have come to appreciate the beauty of the history around us. Places we had never heard of are now known to us and of great interest. We are walking on sacred grounds...this thought takes our breath away.

Buen Camino.

Castrojeriz to Fromista

Castrojeriz to Fromista

We had just left Hornillos en route to Castrojeriz when the winds began to pick up. It was blustery and cloudy and on those rare moments when the sun peeked around the clouds we were not sure if we should take off our coats or not. We would no sooner make a decision and the weather would turn and we would have to switch everything around. This area is stunning and we were enthralled by its beauty. We weren't sure how we missed the first signs but when the rainclouds gathered and we heard the first rumbles of thunder we knew we were in for a storm.

It was sensational. Hail and winds so fierce we had to take cover behind a tree. We were soaked! We haven't seen rain like this in...well years. We waited a few moments and then just decided to proceed. We were already wet. We had about four miles left to go before we reached our destination for the night. We found a lovely albergue and warmed ourselves with a hot shower and dry clothes. We had a lovely dinner and went to bed with extra blankets.

We heard there was a 70% chance of rain for our walk to Fromista. We began to prepare for the day. It never appeared. It was one of the most beautiful days we have experienced. The weather was cool, the sun was shining, clouds were moving quickly over us and we covered nearly eighteen miles without a drop of rain. Fromista is a lovely place and we have enjoyed our time here.

We have come to realize we need not fret over anything. At the end of the day we will be good...sometimes dry, sometimes wet...but always good.

  Buen Camino.

The Beauty of the Meseta

The Beauty of the Meseta

It is as if we went to bed one night in a familiar Spain and woke up in a different country. As we enter the meseta everything feels and looks different. The rich, fertile farmlands are replaced with a pale soil which seems only to be able to nourish the basic of crops...wheat, hay, and an occasional oat. Our weather has changed as if someone had flipped a switch. We have blustery winds and copious rain. We are happy...

I think the thing that surprises me the most is that out in the middle of nowhere there are these oasis of places that harbor the kindest people and lovely communities. We are cared for by all we come in contact with...as if the only reason they are along this way is to help us in some way. We met a woman along the road who offered us fresh fruit and chocolate. No cost...leave what we can. We hugged each other as if we had known each other for ever and then we were on our way.

 We stayed in a lovely farmhouse in Hornillos and the owner gave us fresh fruit and vegetables from his garden. It was a most beautiful gift.

We will continue in this area until we reach Leon. We could be there in a week or so. Until then we are savoring the the beauty that is this area. Hours to think of you...Buen Camino.

Hornillos

Hornillos

We have left Burgos and officially entered the meseta. The meseta is the high plains area of Spain and, interestingly, a place avoided by some traveling the Camino. It came as a bit of a surprise to us that some people actually leave the Camino to bypass this area and reconnect later on the trail. It can be hot in the summer and windy this time of year. A lot of people think that after the beauty of the first part of the Camino this pales in comparison. We think it is beautiful in its own way.

A fellow traveller told us that the first part of the Camino is for your body (physical strength), the second part (the meseta) is for your mind and the third part is for your heart. We tend to agree and as we travel miles of this high plain area we have time to think of many things.

Although we have never been to Hornillos before we know of this place. We had heard of a local priest who had been a missionary to Zaire (DR Congo) and was killed during the revolution. We took the opportunity today to see the monument his village placed in his honor. For this small village it was quite sensational that a local priest was sent on this particular mission and to lose his life on that mission has never been forgotten.

It is quiet here and we are well rested after our holiday in Burgos. We are staying in a Casa Rural and are enjoying fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, and wine provided by our host. The breeze is cool, the sun is warm on our backs and we are thinking of you...

Buen Camino.

Accidental Tourist

Accidental Tourist

We left Ages early in the morning so we could reach Burgos by noon and spend the day sight seeing. We had familiarized ourselves with the area and were excited to see what was in this city. Since both Pamploma and Logrono were considered tourist areas as well as Burgos, we looked forward to our time here. Our friends Pepe and Victor were a day ahead of us and had made some recommendations of places to see.

It was Sunday after church when we arrived and the day of the El Cid festival. There were thousands of people out in the plaza. I have to admit it was a bit overwhelming after being on the trail for the last several days where I knew or at least recognized most people along the way. We decided to stay in a hotel and chose one rather randomly. It was a lovely four star hotel which honored the fact that we were pilgrims. We quickly cleaned up and walked to the plaza where we enjoyed some tapas. I'm not sure what happened exactly but suddenly after seeing so many unrecognizable people I began to cry. Right in the middle of everything. I was missing my familiar. I realized that we have been living a very simple and predictable life on the road. I was missing the simplicity of my daily routine and the beauty of the stillness around me. I found that I wanted my familiar. We went back to our room and took a nice long bath and laid down for a siesta. Something about the cool clean sheets and the down comforter also felt very soothing and familiar. We rested well and got up for dinner. We met a couple of our friends and all of us had had a similar feeling about being in the city again with all of its busyness.

I woke up in the middle of the night and realized that I have been looking for balance in my life. For hours each day one way or another I have been praying for this very thing. I realized today that I am still in a training program. While I have begun to feel comfortable with the ease and routine of my days not all my days will be this simple and predictable. I will not always live a life of solitude but what I want is to live my life simply. I know this will be a process and will take some work on my part.

We stayed in Burgos an extra day. We accidentally became tourist. We meandered through the plaza, into the cathedrals and museums, and just enjoyed a leisurely time. We will ready ourselves for tomorrow and then hit the road again. We are learning so much along the way.

  Buen Camino.

Santo Domingo to Tosantos

Santo Domingo to Tosantos

Santo Domingo was stunning and when it came time to leave we knew we would miss this beautiful area. We ejoyed a late lunch in the plaza, Tom had a pizza and I had yellow asparagus. We picked up our packs and headed...west. We were not sure where we would stay the night but when we neared Tosantos we knew this would be the place. There is only one albergue and it is a parish run hostel. The moment we entered we were given a glass of cool water and a soft place to sit. Our hosts, Fabian and Miguel, took our packs up the stairs and explained what the activities of the evening would be.

First, there would be a tour of the church which was built into the mountain side in the 17th century. Then, as a group, we would cook paella for dinner. If we desired, there would be a pilgrim blessing in the small chapel before bed. It seemed low keyed and a perfect plan for the evening.

We treked up the hill to the small church. It was incredible. We were asked not to take photos inside. Instead, we were to let the impressions of what we saw here burn a place in our heart and then asked to remember the people of this church in our prayers. There are no words that describe the inside of that small church. It was simple compared to others we had seen but you could tell that this place was considered Holy by those who entered and cared for it. We were so honored to be able to go inside.

Our dinner was fantastic! Hot paella, fresh salad, good bread, soup, wine, and fruit. It was lovely. Everybody pitched in and then our hosts served us. It was humbling to be served by these two men who had worked very hard to prepare for us. As we ate, each country represented had the opportunity to sing their country's national song. Eight countries were represented and it was beautiful and fun listening to everyone sing.

We had a time of prayer and blessing following dinner. Each of us read a letter left behind from a previous pilgrim in our own language. These letters contained prayer requests and it gave us a moment to remember other pilgrims on this pilgrimage and the needs they may have. Although a lot of languages were being spoken it was a very spiritual moment for all.

This was a beautiful experience for us. We are thankful that for a moment this was the place we called home. Buen Camino.

 

 

Santo Domingo de la Cazada

Santo Domingo de la Cazada

This afternoon we found ourselves in Santo Domingo de la Cazada. It is considered the heart of the Camino because of Saint Domingo's influence in this area. When Domingo was a young man he wanted to enter the monastery and become a priest. For reasons unknown he was refused but chose instead to dedicate his life to the service of others. Specifically, he cared for the pilgrims who walked along the way to Santiago de Compestella. It is said he built the pilgrims hospital whose remains are still visible today and the bridge that crosses over the river Oja.

We set our packs down and toured the cathedral and tower. They were built in the 11th and 12th century and are stunning. One of the most interesting exhibits in the cathedral is a chicken coop which contain two live fowl. It relates to the story of the Miracle of the Cock. Embellished over the years, it has become one of the more endearing legends along the Way of St James. Legend has it that a pilgrim couple and their handsome son were traveling along the Way when an innkeepers daughter became smitten with the young man. He spurned her advances and in her humiliation she hid a silver goblet in his rucksack and accused him of stealing it. Unbeknown to his parents he was hung but his life was spared by Santo Domingo who's sole purpose was to care and rescue pilgrims along the Way. He was found hanging from the gallows but miraculously still alive. When they went to report this to the sheriff he was just about to eat dinner. He retorted that their son could no more be alive than the cock he was about to eat, when suddenly the cock stood up and crowed. Hence, a rooster remains in the cathedral to this day.

The antiquity of this area is remarkable and we are in awe of all that is around us. Our journey is not just the acquisition of miles and credential stamps. It is stopping along the way to enjoy what is around us. Our thoughts are now focused on what is to see and experience as opposed to where we will lay our heads for the evening. We are experiencing all God would have for us and trusting that at the end of each day we are exactly where we need to be. It is so very freeing...

Not sure where we will lay our heads tonight...but it will be good for sure.

  Buen Camino.

Life in Balance

Life in Balance

As we entered Viana in the early evening we had walked nearly twenty-three miles. We had felt so rested the day before we opted to go a little further than we had planned and then take a short walk into Logrono the next day so we could spend some time sight seeing. I have come to love the spontaneity of our days and the ease in which we can make our plans.

Along the way we have met many people and have enjoyed our time spent with them. What I find fascinating are the reasons people have chosen to walk along the way. Some are here out of tragic loss, unexpected changes in life or career, some for the adventure, and others, for time. Time to think about life and get a perspective on it that wasn't there before.

Today we are in Logrono. Logrono is a good sized city with a population of about 130,000. It is part of the Rioja region which is infamous for it's wine production. The last week of September is their annual wine festival. Our timing is exquisite although most of the big events are winding down. We can concur, the wine here is some of the best we have ever tasted.

What is first and foremost on my mind today is the balance in life. Working hard...resting well...living deeply and richly. Being joyous in all seasons of life. Today it is my most prevalent thought. I want my Life in balance...


So our boots are off, our packs laid down and we are exploring the area. We are having tapas with some fellow pilgrims and then, perhaps a little siesta. Looking forward to what lies ahead...and the delight of just being.

Buen Camino.

Albergues

Albergues

I wanted to take a moment and tell you a little bit about the albergues we have stayed in. Albergues are the housing accommodations for the peregrinos. There are a variety of types and we are experiencing as many as we can and have enjoyed each and every one of them.

First, there are the municipal albergues and they are the most basic. They are also the least expensive and usually run about 5-10E per person per night. We stayed in one of these on our third night and we found ourselves sleeping with about 20 people we had not yet met. This was quickly remedied at bedtime when we met the people we were soon to be sleeping with up close and personal.


There are some private alburgues in which you share a room but these usually house less people per room than the municipal. We found ourselves in a beautiful private albergue in Ventosa. It was like a beautiful dream with only four other people.






We have stayed in some Casa de Rural which really is a lovely farmhouse and we usually have the whole place to ourselves. This really is our favorite but we are content where ever we are because we are together and this not the way we usually spend our evenings. We are open to the adventure this travel brings.

We have stayed in some churches and monasteries and these are beautiful in their own way. They only except donativo or donations for our stay and our dinner and breakfast. Everyone pitches in on the preparations for dinner and we love the sense of community in these places. This reminds me of our Sunday afternoon family lunches and it is, as if for a brief moment, I get a piece of home. It is also special because of the blessings and prayers over the pilgrims. We had some of the best paella while in the Hospital de Peregrinos St Francis de Assi. Here we slept on the floor on soft mats with about 15 other people. It was one of the best nights sleep we both had.



One of the places we stayed in was called 'House of the Rising Sun' and it actually played music from the era of that song. It was lovingly referred to as the 'hippy' place and Ernesto, the guy who runs the place, was kind and loving to each of us.

I think the very best thing about this kind of travel is that neither of us worry where we will lay our head as night falls. We are taken care of and we are exactly where we are supposed to be.

Buen Camino!

Logrono to Ventosa

Logrono to Ventosa

Today we left Logrono and walked nearly fourteen miles to the quaint town of Ventosa. We had considered traveling a bit further today but this little village nestled in the middle of some of the most spectacular grape vineyards captivated us almost immediately. We are staying and already we have set out to explore.

I have noticed a change in the way our days seem to enfold. In the beginning of our journey we seemed to be more focused on the task of our  destination. How far to walk, where to stay the night, who we would meet and where predominated our thoughts. As we enter our tenth day we have definitely picked up the spirit of the true pilgrim. When asked where we are going we reply that we don't as of yet...we will see where the spirit leads us. We have been exactly where we are supposed to be each and every day.

We stayed at a lovely abergue and we were awakened by the sound of the most beautiful Gregorian chants playing through the hallways. It was like a beautiful dream.

We are off today...not quite sure where but I know it will be perfect.

Buen Camino