Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes

It was the perfect day to walk as we left Ponte de Lima for Rubiaes. We had such a lovely time I have to admit it was a little hard to leave. We got up early and stopped for coffee at the local coffee shop. By 7:30 the room was full of locals drinking coffee and port wine and the the cafe was abuzz with laughter and loud, playful conversations. We wished we were a little more fluent in Portuguese so we could contribute. It was the happening place this morning.

Our walk was only to be about 15 miles and we had a very steep hill to ascend. Once we set out there were no places to stop so we packed our lunch. It was hard climb but so very beautiful.

We were warm and sweaty when we came into town. We chose our albergue because it was a private home that had been converted to a pilgrim shelter. For us, they feel a bit like home and we always enjoy visiting with the people who live in these beautiful country villages. I will never forget as we walked up the last little hill. Maria, our hostess, stood in the road with her apron on and welcomed us in. She poured us a glass of her homemade vinho verde (red wine) which she scooped out of a barrel for us. She then picked up some chestnuts and quickly roasted them for us while we sat and rested our bones. We talked for the longest time and she told us what life was like for her as a widow with four daughters. Times had been very hard for several years but she was doing much better now.

After an hour or so she brought us a plate of freshly made arroz con leche and served us like we were high school football players after the football game. Needless to say, we did not need dinner that night. I think one of the things I appreciated the most was her generosity. Often times, after hard seasons in life we hesitate or hold back out of fear. She did not. She was very kind and generous and gave freely.

The countryside becomes much more beautiful as we head northward. We will be in Spain soon to a more familiar Camino. While that is very exciting to me I will miss these moments. The times when we are sitting and chatting with someone we have just met. Drinking wine from a barrel and eating freshly roasted chestnuts on the terrace. These moments only occur because I am here in this moment. It was a beautiful exchange of experiences by two women who had never met nor would probably ever see each other again. I will carry this moment with me and in the years to come I will always remember it with great joy.

She invited us to stay at the castle in Valenca which is just south of the Spanish border. We will consider this as we walk. We are excited to know that we are close to Spain and yet a little sad to leave Portugal. This walk has had its' fair share of hard moments but the beautiful encounters with the Portuguese people have by far exceeded any hardship we may have experienced. It has been exactly what we needed.

We are thinking of you each and everyday and are hold your heart next to ours. Looking forward to our return when we can be together again. You are loved...Buen Camino.